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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. But, nestled near the top among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The honour has made the proprietors totally astonished.

“I’m totally shocked,” says the proprietor, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small restaurant achieving such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.